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Mt. Broad Peak Expedition

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Departure

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summer:

June - August

duration:

49 days

grade:

Challenging (grade III)

max altitude:

8,051m/26,415.331ft

    Fixed Departure

    Season: summer

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About Expedition

Broad Peak, locally called Falchan Kangri, is the world’s 12th highest mountain at 8,051 meters. It is located along the western Baltoro glacier between K2 and Gasherbrum IV in the Karakoram Range in north-eastern Pakistan. The expedition main route to the summit involves a 3,150 m. ascent from the base camp via the West Spur and North Ridge and this route is moderately strenuous. The summit ridge of the peak is almost 2 km long and therefore, British explorer, W.M. Conway named the mountain ‘Broad Peak’. An Austrian expedition team were the first from Europe to summit this peak in 1957 without porters or supplemental oxygen.

Upon arriving in Islamabad, we collect the permits for the peak and fly from Islamabad to Skardu. We also have another option, if the weather is good, we can travel by jeep through the Indus gorge to Askole. In Askole we fix camp out in the wild countryside.

From Askole we begin our trek to base camp of Mount Broad Peak and each night we camp out at Jhula, Paiju, Urdukas, Goro II and Concordia Broad peak base camp before we actually ascend and summit to Mount Broad peak. It takes us 6 days to reach the base camp. Balti porters will carry all our camping gear and luggage up the valley towards the stark and barren countryside. From the base camp, the route involves ascent through a rock gully to Camp I (6,000m) and then further up a large snow face until we reach Camp II at around 6,400m. A final camp is set up at 7,400m from here we make the summit attempt. The climbing is not that extremely steep but the remoteness of the area will make an especially rewarding experience. Climbing to this remote region will have its own unique experience.


Itinerary

Weeks (1)

1

Week 0null

Day 001   Arrival at Islamabad then transfer to hotel

Day 002   Free day in Islamabad

Day 003   Fly to Skardu

Day 004   Skardu - free day at Skardu

Day 005   Skardu - Briefing at Tourism department of Gilgit Baltistan. Final preparation at Skardu

Day 006   Drive by Jeep to Askole

Day 007   Trek to Johla Day

Day 008   Trek to Paiyu

Day 009   Rest day at Paiyu

Day 010   Trek to Urdukas

Day 011   Trek to Goro II

Day 012   Trek to Concordia Broad peak base camp

Day 013-40   Climbing period of Mt. Broad Peak

Day 041   Trek back to Goro II

Day 042   Trek to Khuburtze

Day 043   Trek to Mungrong

Day 044   Trek to Askole

Day 045   Drive by jeep to Skardu

Day 046   Farewell meeting (Briefing) at Tourism Department of Gilgit Baltistan

Day 047   Islamabad/Chilas. Fly to Islamabad Pakistan (Subject to weather). Upon arrival transfer to hotel. In case of flight cancellation drive to Chilas. Overnight at hotel

Day 048   Leisure day at Islamabad. In Case of driving, complete road journey from Chilas to Islamabad

Day 049   Final Departure

includes

  • International and Domestic airport transfer
  • 4 Nights hotel accommodation in Islamabad and 3 nights’ hotel accommodation in Skardu with breakfast
  • All necessary transportation in Pakistan during the expedition trip
  • Climbing permit for Broad peak & all necessary documents
  • Food for trekking and whole expedition
  • Government Liaison officer
  • Base Camp cook & kitchen helpers
  • National park & garbage disposal fees
  • Porter up to Base Camp & return from the Base Camp
  • Staff’s medical & emergency rescue insurance 50 kg per member as personal baggage
  • Base camp tents: Dining, Kitchen, Store, Toilet, Hot shower, form mattresses, Table & Chairs, Cooking gears and other necessary materials
  • Generator or Solar panel will be provided at Base camp for using Computer and other electronic devices
  • Weather forecast
  • Oxygen: 4 bottles for member and 3 bottles for each Climbing Sherpa. Extra Oxygen for emergencies stored at Base Camp (chargeable as per use)
  • VE25 North face or any other branded Tents for the expedition
  • One Set of Top out or Summit mask & Regulator for each member and Sherpa
  • Satellite Phone and walkie talkie as needed on the basis of Member
  • Broad peak summiteer Sherpa guide for per Member
  • Necessary cooking gas, cooking pot, high food, ropes and other climbing gears
  • Climbing Sherpa equipment allowance, carrying bonus, and his daily wages etc.
  • Broad peak climbing Certificate issued by ACOP (after climbing Broad peak successfully)
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Facts of the Trip

Hight

(8051M/26414ft.)

First Ascent

1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger

Duration

49 Days

Group Size

05-10 people

Co-ordinates

35°48′39″N 76°34′06″E

Location

Gasherbrum massif in Baltistan on the border of Pakistan and China

Country

Pakistan

Airport

Islamabad

Transportation

Bus, Jeep

Best season

Summer season

Major Activity

Trekking/Climbing

Culture

Punjabis, Kashmiris, Sindhis, Muhajirs, Makrani

Climbing route

West Ridge

Himalayan sights

K2 and G2

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FAQ