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Mt. Kanchenjunga Expedition

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Departure

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Date

04 Apr 2025 - Date


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spring:

March - May

duration:

50 days

grade:

Extreme (grade V)

max altitude:

8,586m/28,170.666ft

    Fixed Departure

    Season: spring

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About Expedition

Kanchenjunga is the third highest peak in the world and the second highest in Nepal with an altitude of 8,586 meters (28,169 feet). It is a massif mountain with many satellite peaks soaring high from its narrow icy ridges located at the border of Nepal and Sikkim (India), just 46 miles northwest of Darjeeling (India as part of the Great Himalayan mountain range at longitude 27º42′ North and 88º08′ East). Mt. Kanchenjunga has 5 peaks, four of them are over 8,450 meters. Three of these five peaks (main, central, and south) are on the border of North Sikkim of India and Taplejung District of Nepal, while the other two are completely in Taplejung District of Nepal. The true Summit for expedition is 8,586 meters/28,170 feet. The route (North Face) is definitely the safest, but not the easiest.

Kanchenjunga region is also home to the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area Project run by the World Wildlife Fund in association with Nepal Government. The sanctuary is home to the Red Panda and other animals, birds and plants. India’s side of Kanchenjunga also has a protected park area called the Khangchendzonga National Park.

Kangchenjunga was first scaled on May 25, 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band of a British expedition team. The British expedition honored the beliefs of the Sikkimese people, who treat the summit as sacred. This British expedition team stopped a few feet below from the actual summit. The other expedition parties since then have followed this tradition and none of the expedition teams have summited Mt. Kanchanjunga from Sikkim side till date.

The Japanese expedition team took up the challenge and did expeditions in 1973, 1974 and 1976 during which they climbed Yalung Kang. A German Expedition team climbed Yalung Kang in the year 1975. Similarly in 1977 an Indian army team climbed the Yalung Kang peak successfully.


Itinerary

Weeks (6)

1

Week 01

Day 01   Arrival in Kathmandu & transfer to Hotel (1,300m/4,265ft)

Day 02   Expedition preparation

Day 03   Fly from Kathmandu to Bhadrapur then drive to Phidim

Day 04   Drive from Phidim to Khewadenba by Jeep

Day 05   Trek from Khandenba to Khewang (1,740m)

Day 06   Trek from Khewang to Yamphudin (2,080m)

Day 07   Acclimatization in Yamphudin (rest day)

2

Week 02

Day 08   Trek from Yamphudin to Tortong (2,995m)

Day 09   Trek from Tortong to Tseram (3,870m)

Day 010   Trek from Tseram to Ramche (4,580m)

Day 011   Acclimatization in Ramche (rest day)

Day 012   Trek from Ramche to Glacier camp (4,890m)

Day 013   Trek from Glacier Camp to Pangpema (Kanchenjunga base camp – 5,143m)

3

Week 2-3

Day 014-16   Kanchenjunga base camp rituals prayer preparations and climbing training

4

Week 3-6

Day 017-41   Climbing period base camp – Kanchenjunga summit (8,586m) – base camp

5

Week 07

Day 042   Trek from Basecamp to Ramche

Day 043   Trek from Ramche to Tortong

Day 044   Trek from Tortong to Yamphudin

Day 045   Trek from Yamohudin toa Khewang

Day 046   Trek from Khewang to Khandenba

Day 047   Trek from Khandenba to Bhadrapur & transfer to the hotel via Phidin

Day 048   Fly from Bhadrapur to Kathmandu & transfer to the hotel

Day 049   Free day in Kathmandu

6

Week 08

Day 050   Final Departure

includes

  • International and domestic airport transfers
  • 4 nights hotel in Kathmandu with breakfast
  • A welcome dinner in Kathmandu with expedition staffs
  • All necessary documents such as expedition permit, (TIMS) card, national park & entry fees
  • A Government Liaison officer and his equipment allowance, insurance, salary and accommodation
  • Garbage management and Deposal fees
  • Medical & emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese crew during the trekking and expedition
  • All necessary transportation for members and crew from Kathmandu to base camp & base camp to Kathmandu
  • Fresh meals on full board (Breakfast+Lunch+Dinner) with hot drinks - tea/ coffee, soup items
  • Climbing guide, base camp cook, kitchen helper, porter & their daily wages, equipment, food etc.
  • We will provide individual tent with form mattress & pillow for each member at base camp
  • Dinning, kitchen, communication, store, toilet & shower tents at base camp
  • Tables, chairs & all necessary cooking gears
  • Heater at base camp in member and staff dinning tent
  • Generator or solar panel for battery recharge, light or any other electronic devices at base camp
  • A professional climbing Sherpa per member
  • Equipment that requires advance payment, daily wages and carrying bonus for climbing Sherpa
  • Oxygen - 4 bottles for each member and 2 bottles for each climbing Sherpa
  • Mask & regulator for each member and climbing Sherpa
  • In case of emergencies, sufficient oxygen and mask regulator available at our Base Camp (chargeable as per use).
  • Satellite phone carrying by team guide for emergency communication with appropriate charge
  • Walkie-Talkie & satellite Phone for communication during the expedition
  • High altitude food, Tent, EPI gas & cooking pot for the expedition
  • Weather forecast during the entire expedition
  • Medical kit for the expedition crew
facts-section-bg

Facts of the Trip

First Ascent

May 25, 1955, Mr. Joe Brown and George Band, British Expedition

Highest access

8,586m (28,169ft)

Duration

50 Days

Co-ordinates

27°42'10''N / 88°09'00''E

Location

Nepal/ Sikkim

Country

Nepal

Best season

spring

Major Activity

Trekking/ Climbing

Culture

Sherpa, Rai and Limbu

Climbing route

Southeast Ridge

Himalayan sights

Kanchenjunga, Baruntse, Kanchanjunga South

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FAQ

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Hosted by Mingma Dorchi Sherpa

Joined may 2021

Mingma Dorchi Sherpa is a Superhost

Mingma Dorchi Sherpa is the Co-founder and Director of Pioneer Adventure Pvt. Ltd. With a lifelong passion for adventure tourism, he embarked on his climbing career in 2009 at the age of 22. Since then, he has established himself as a responsible and professional expedition-leading guide.