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Mt. Lhotse Expedition

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Departure

2· 76 reviews

Date

14 Apr 2025 - Date


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spring:

March - May

duration:

45 days

grade:

Strenuous (grade IV)

max altitude:

8,516m/27,940.996ft

    Fixed Departure

    Season: spring

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About Expedition

Lhotse is the world’s 4th highest mountain with the elevation of 8,516m (27,940 ft) above sea level. The exact meaning of Lhotse in the Tibetan language is ‘South Peak’. It lies south of Mount Everest and connected with the South Col. Apart from the main summit of Lhotse at 8,516m, there are two other smaller peaks namely Lhotse Middle (East) at 8,414m and Lhotse Shar at 8,383m. The main summit of Mt. Lhotse is on the border between Tibet (China) and the Khumbu region of Nepal. The main mountain of Mt. Lhotse is famous in the world for its remarkable and dramatic south face. It is the steepest face in the world that rises 3.2km within 2.25km horizontal distance. This is why it is extremely difficult to climb and very few climbers have attempted the summit till date. The standard climbing route on Mt. Lhotse follows via Everest’s South Col. route up to the Yellow Band beyond Camp III. After the Yellow Band, the route deviates with climbers bound for Everest taking a left over the Geneva Spur up to the South Col, while Lhotse climbers take a right further up the Lhotse face. The last part to the summit passes through the narrow “Reiss couloir” up to the Lhotse main peak is reached.

The main summit of Lhotse was first climbed by two Swiss climbers – Fritz. Luchsinger and Ernst. Reiss from the Swiss Mount Everest/Lhotse Expedition on May 18, 1956, through the West Face. The South Face of Mt. Lhotse despite being attempted many times was successfully climbed only in 1984 by a Czech. On May 12, 1979, Lhotse Shar summit was scaled and the middle summit was climbed on May 23, 2001.


Itinerary

Weeks (5)

1

Week 01

Day 01   Arrival in Kathmandu & transfer to Hotel (1,300m/4,265ft)

Day 02   Preparation, briefings, last minute shopping and permit formalities

Day 03   Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding

Day 04   Trek to Namche Bazar

Day 05   At leisure in Namche Bazar

Day 06   Trek to Thyangboche

Day 07   Trek to Dingboche

2

Week 02

Day 08   Acclimatization and explore Dingboche

Day 09   Trek to Lobuche

Day 010   Trek to Everest Base Camp

3

Week 2-3

Day 011-15   Lhotse Base camp rituals prayer preparations and climbing training

4

Week 3-6

Day 016-40   Climbing period of Lhotse

5

Week 06

Day 041   Trek down to Pheriche or direct fly by Heli

Day 042   Trek down to Namche

Day 043   Trek down to Lukla

Day 044   Free day in Kathmandu

Day 045   Final Departure

includes

  • International and domestic airport transfers
  • 4 Nights hotel accommodation in Kathmandu
  • A welcome dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant in Kathmandu
  • Both way air tickets for Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu with airport tax
  • Land and air domestic transportation cost for our overall expedition crew for the entire expedition
  • Expedition Royalty and Climbing Permit Charge by Nepal Government to climb Mount Lhotse
  • Khumbu Icefall route and summit route fixing charge
  • Garbage management and disposal fee
  • Breakfast, lunch and dinner with hot drinks, tea/coffee
  • Government Liaison Officer
  • Experienced and well-trained Base Camp cook, Camp II cook and kitchen helpers
  • Porters up to the Base Camp and return from the Base Camp
  • Wages, equipment, food, accommodation, and insurance for all staffs
  • Maximum 60kg per member
  • Each expedition member will have an individual tent available at the Base Camp
  • Dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent, hot shower tent, communication tent, mattress, pillow, table, chair, and other necessary equipment
  • Generator at the Base Camp and solar panel at C2 for light and charging any electronic devices
  • Heater at the Base Camp for a member and staff
  • Walkie-talkie per member and climbing staff as required
  • Internet service, satellite and cell-phone network available at the Base Camp (chargeable as per use)
  • HRA medical camp provides emergency medical services with certain charge
  • Availability of the daily weather forecast during the entire expedition
  • 3 bottles oxygen allocated for member and 2 bottles for each climbing Sherpa
  • Top Out or Summit mask regulator for each member and climbing Sherpa
  • In case of emergencies, sufficient oxygen and mask regulator available at our Base Camp (chargeable as per use)
  • North Face, Kailas, or any other branded tent from Base Camp to C1, C2, C3 and C4
  • EPI gas and gas burner, dynamic climbing rope, ice screws, snow shovel, snow bars, carabineers etc.
  • One professional climbing Sherpa per member
  • Equipment that requires advance payment, daily wages, carrying bonus
  • Equipment allowance for Base Camp Cook, Camp II Cook, and Kitchen Helpers
  • Helicopter rescue insurance for high altitude climbing guide, cook, and staff
  • Farewell dinner in a Nepali typical restaurant in Kathmandu
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Facts of the Trip

First Ascent

May 18th, 1956, Ernst Reiss & Fritz Luchsinger

Highest access

(8516M/27940ft.)

Best season

Late spring and autumn

Duration

45 Days

Co-ordinates

27°57'45'' N/86°56'03'' E

Location

Nepal/ Tibet border

Country

Nepal

Major Activity

Trekking/ Mountaineering

Culture

Sherpa and Tamang

Climbing route

South Col

Himalayan sights

Ama Dablam, Everest, Makalu

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FAQ

B

Hosted by Mingma Dorchi Sherpa

Joined may 2021

Mingma Dorchi Sherpa is a Superhost

Mingma Dorchi Sherpa is the Co-founder and Director of Pioneer Adventure Pvt. Ltd. With a lifelong passion for adventure tourism, he embarked on his climbing career in 2009 at the age of 22. Since then, he has established himself as a responsible and professional expedition-leading guide.