About Expedition

Mt. Makalu is the world’s 5th highest mountain at the elevation of 8,463 meters (27,820ft). It is located in the Mahalangur Himal 19 km north-east between Everest and Kanchenjunga on the Nepal-Tibet border. It is an isolated peak, looks like a perfect pyramid with sharp ridges on four sides and it makes the mountain more beautiful. It is considered one of the most challenging mountains in the world for climbing expedition.

We begin Mount Makalu Climbing expedition with a domestic flight from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar (45 min). You will enjoy the incredible views and mountain scenery from the flight. Upon arrival at Tumlingtar airport, we begin our walk above the ARUN River valley past Sherpa settlements and forests enjoying views of Mount Chamlang Himalaya in the distance until we step on the base of the West Face at 5,800m. From the base of the West Face, we gently climb to the hanging ice-fall at 6,100m to the right part of the ice-fall. The second section of the route stretches from the plateau above the icefall along 35 to 45-degree elevation’s rock up to 6,500m high. The next higher section is an ice-rock steep wall with 50 to 55 degrees inclination & extends up to 7,400 meters in elevation. The final section begins from 70 to 75-degree elevation’s rock pillar, leading to the west ridge at 8,000m. Though there are many routes on the mountain but we choose less-trodden, isolated route which leads to the beautiful Barun valley.

As we reach nearer to Makalu Base Camp at 4,800m, here we will find the terrain rocky with loose scree. At the base camp, we halt for two nights to acclimatize and make a side excursion around beautiful high grazing areas at the top of the Barun Glacier. From the base camp, we enjoy spectacular views of Mount Everest (8,850m), Mount Lhotse (8,516m), Mount Makalu (8,463m), Mount Chamlang (7,319m) and Mount Baruntse (7,220m). After base camp, we walk up for almost seven hours over the moraine and boulder fields of the Barun Glacier until we reach Advanced Base Camp at 5,700m (ABC). Here we spend most of our time. From Advanced Base Camp we ascend a steep ice-snow wall with fixed lines to reach Camp I. At Camp I, we spend 2 nights to make an acclimatization trip across the easy glacier to Camp II, 6,600m which is a small, flat sheltered area nearby some ice walls. BeyondCamp II, the climb is a technical part with open snow slope, which can be deep and prone to avalanches. There is also one more mixed section of rock and blue ice which leads up to the Makalu La at 7,450m. Before we reachCamp III at 7,400m, we have to walk 200 meters on flat terrain covered with ice. From Camp III, it takes us only 3 hours to reach Camp IV at 7,600m and this is the last spot for fixing a camp below the summit. On summit day, we climb over moderate glacial slopes up to the base of the French Couloir, a shallow 300m high gully of mixed rock bands and snow that leads to the summit. From the summit, we truly enjoy the panoramic view starting from Mount Kanchenjunga in the east to uncountable peaks including Mount Shishapangma of Tibet in the west.